Wine Advocate #223 - 4th Mar 2016 - Luis Gutiérrez - Comando G Las Umbrías - 97/100 - 2016 - 2023 - $125
Year after year, the lightest colored and more ethereal wine, the 2013 Las Umbrías is their single vineyard red from the village of Las Rozas de Puerto Real. It might seem like a Rosé, but then you find the proverbial iron fist inside that velvet glove. The entry is very light and then it hits you back with those granular tannins and that upfront granite minerality. This small plot of old vines is located at some 1,000 meters altitude on granite soils, and the vines get very little light and produce very fine, elegant wines from grapes that have slow ripening and can be picked later. As I see with most of these 2013, the vintage has produced the best Las Umbrías so far. Light, perfumed, ethereal and simply superb, this is the essence of Gredos in a glass. Garnacha perfume. Unfortunately, the late harvest in the zone forced to a strict sorting and only 773 bottles and 30 magnums were filled in early February 2015.