Einmal im Jahr ereignet sich im spanischen Weinhandel ein seltsames, archaisch anmutendes Ritual - immer dann, wenn Emilio Rojo sich auf die Reise macht und den neuen Jahrgang seines Weins seinen langjährigen Kunden persönlich anliefert - gegen Barzahlung.
Der kauzige Emilio Rojo war einst als Telekommunikations-Ingenieur tätig , bevor er 1987 die Weinkellerei seines Vaters übernahm und von da an begann, seine ganz eigenen Vorstellungen eines spanischen Spitzen-Weißweins zu verwirklichen.
Emilio verwendet für seine Wein allesamt autochthone Rebsorten Galiciens:
Treixadura, Loureiro, Lado, Albariño and Torrontés
Sein "Emilio Rojo" ist mittlerweile einer der berühmtesten Weißwein Spaniens, sicher aber der, der am schwierigsten zu bekommen ist. Die Produktion beträgt jährlich um die 10.000 Flaschen und Moro macht keine Anstalten, die Menge zu erhöhen.
Bruce Schoenfeld hat im Wine Spectator vom 30. Nov. 2004 einen lesenswerten Bericht über Emilio Rojo verfasst, hier einige Auszüge daraus:
" ... the idiosyncratic Emilio Rojo works out of a glorified Quonset hut, deliberately turning his back on modernity. With his bristly mustache and black baseball cap, he is instantly recognizable in wine circles throughout Spain, appearing in magazine photos and attending symposiums. And yet, many Spanish consumers have never actually seen his wine. (...)
He took over the winery from his father in 1987 and changed its concept from bulk wines to tiny quantities of the highest quality. Now 51, he makes a living at it, barely. His wines sell for about $35 a bottle in stores in the United States, startlingly expensive for a Spanish white—but even before expenses, his revenue is meager.
The result, year after year, is a complex and delicate wine that can be found on the wine lists of some of Spain’s best restaurants, including Michelin three-stars El Bulli, Arzak and Can Fabes, and in the United States, which gets an allotment of 50 cases annually.
Despite his critical success, or perhaps because of it, Rojo has no interest in planting new vines, not even on the patch of empty land that sits above his terraced vineyard. “My goal is to make less wine, not more,” he says. “I’d rather have a vineyard with five vines than 5,000.” Believe it or not, he has exactly that: a row of five lonely vines on a tiny strip of soil that his wife’s parents used to own. Its existence expresses his philosophy better than any mission statement or marketing brochure ever could. But Rojo’s scale of production fits Galicia. These aren’t appellations suited for large-scale winemaking."
Kritikerbewertungen:
José Peñin: 90
Genussdaten
Dekantierzeit: --
Serviertemperatur: 8-10°C
Trinkempfehlung: 2005-2007
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